Rat and mouse articles · Updated
How to get rid of rats in Plano
Figure out which rat you have, take away its food and water, trap along the runways, then seal every gap a rat can use. In Plano that usually means roof rats in the attic, so the sealing happens at the roofline. Poison alone doesn't solve it.
Getting rid of rats takes four steps: know which rat you have, remove what's feeding it, trap the ones already there and close the way in. Skip any of them and the rats come back. In Plano the most common case is roof rats in the attic. The second is Norway rats burrowing in a back yard near a creek or greenbelt.
Step 1: know which rat you have
Roof rats climb. They live in attics, trees and dense shrubs, and you hear them overhead at night. Norway rats dig. They live in burrows along slabs, fences and sheds. Droppings help too: roof rat droppings are slim and pointed, about half an inch; Norway rat droppings are thicker and blunt, about three-quarters of an inch. The roof rats vs. mice article has the full comparison.
Step 2: take away food and water
Rats stay where eating is easy. In Plano yards the usual food sources are bird seed, pet food, fallen pecans and fruit, open compost and trash carts with cracked lids. Water comes from dripping hose bibs, irrigation leaks, pet bowls and pool equipment.
- Rake up spilled bird seed and use a tray under the feeder
- Feed pets inside, or pick up bowls after meals
- Pick up fallen fruit and nuts
- Close the compost bin; keep meat and dairy out
- Keep trash cart lids shut and replace damaged carts
- Fix leaks and empty standing water
Something in the attic or the garage?
Want a local rodent technician to look at it? Same-day appointments are often available. (972) 325-9652
Step 3: trap where they travel
Snap traps are the standard tool. Place them along walls and runways, where rats actually move, not in the middle of the floor. In the attic that means along the top plates and beams with droppings. In the yard it means along the fence and near burrows, inside a covered box so pets and birds can't reach them.
Rats are wary of new objects. Texas A&M AgriLife training material recommends pre-baiting for rats: leave traps baited but unset for one to two weeks so the rats get used to them, then set them. It also says more traps are better than fewer, and to check them often. The traps article covers types and placement.
Step 4: seal the way in
Trapping without sealing is a treadmill. AgriLife's material says a rat needs a hole about the size of a quarter, or a half-inch crack. For roof rats, the gaps are usually at the roofline: roof returns, soffit corners, vents and the gap around the plumbing stacks. For Norway rats, they're at ground level: under the garage door, around pipes and under sheds.
Close them with metal: hardware cloth, sheet metal flashing, copper or steel mesh packed tight with sealant over it. Foam alone doesn't stop a rat. If rats are living inside when you seal, seal the last opening only after trapping has slowed down, so you don't trap them in.
Yard rats vs. house rats
If you only see rats outside, along the fence or near the compost, the job is mostly about food and burrows: clean up the yard, trap along the fence in covered boxes and fill burrows once they go quiet. If you hear them inside, the job is mostly about the house: trap in the attic or garage and seal the roofline and ground-level gaps. Many Plano houses have both, with Norway rats in the yard and roof rats overhead. Treat them as two jobs that share a timeline, and make sure whoever you hire covers both the yard and the roofline.
After the rats are gone
Once the noise stops and the traps stay empty for a week or two, clean up. Wet droppings with disinfectant before you wipe them up, and don't sweep or vacuum them dry. Look for damage: chewed wiring, torn duct and soiled insulation. Then keep an eye on things. A few snap traps left in the garage act as an early warning, and a quick look at the attic floor every month tells you whether the fix is holding.
What about poison?
Poison inside the house or attic is a bad idea. A poisoned rat can die in a wall or the attic, and the smell lasts for weeks. Under the EPA's 2008 rodenticide decision, as summarized by the Texas Department of Agriculture, the strongest anticoagulant baits aren't sold to consumers, and consumer baits must come in or with a bait station. If a provider uses bait outside, it should be in locked, tamper-resistant stations.
When to call a professional
Call if you hear rats in the attic, if traps keep catching rats week after week, if the gaps are up high, or if there are burrows all along the fence. A provider can do the ladder work, find gaps you can't see from the ground and handle cleanup if the insulation is soiled. Start with roof rat control or Norway rat control, depending on which you have.
Something in the attic or the garage?
Ready to have the gaps found and closed? Call and describe what you're hearing or finding. (972) 325-9652
Common questions
How long does it take to get rid of rats?
Often two to four weeks of trapping, with sealing done along the way. Rats are cautious, so the first few nights can be slow.
What bait works best in rat traps?
Foods they're already eating work well: nuts, peanut butter, dried fruit or pet food. Use a small amount secured to the trigger.
Will one rat mean more?
Usually. Rats live in family groups. AgriLife's training material describes a typical family group of about 10 rats.
Do I need to tell my neighbors?
It helps. Rats travel along shared fences and alleys, and a neighbor's bird feeder or woodpile can keep feeding them.