Rat and mouse articles · Updated
The best rat and mouse traps, and how to use them
Snap traps are the most reliable tool for both rats and mice. Use the right size, set plenty of them flush against walls along runways, pre-bait for rats and check them daily. Skip glue boards and loose poison inside the house.
The trap matters less than where you put it. A cheap snap trap in the right spot outperforms an expensive gadget in the wrong one. Here's what works, how many to use and where to set them in a Plano house.
Snap traps
Snap traps are the standard for a reason: they're cheap, fast and you know right away whether they worked. Buy the right size. Mouse traps are too small to hold a rat, and rat traps can be too stiff for a mouse to trigger. Wood and plastic both work. Plastic traps with a wide trigger plate are easier to set and clean.
Electric traps
Battery-powered traps lure the rodent into a chamber and kill it with a shock. They're enclosed, which keeps the mess out of sight and fingers and paws out of the trap. They cost more, and they need fresh batteries. They're a good choice inside a kitchen or pantry where you'd rather not see a snap trap.
Live traps and glue boards
Live-catch traps work, but then you have a live rodent to deal with. Releasing it nearby usually means it comes back, and handling it risks a bite. The CDC says rat-bite fever can spread through bites, scratches and contact with a rodent's saliva or urine.
Glue boards catch rodents alive and stuck, which leaves you with a stressed animal and the same handling problem. They also catch lizards, birds and pets' paws. Most homeowners are better off with snap or electric traps.
Something in the attic or the garage?
Want a local rodent technician to look at it? Same-day appointments are often available. (972) 325-9652
Where to put them
Rodents run along walls, not across open floors. Set traps flush against the wall, with the trigger end toward the wall, along the paths where you see droppings or rub marks.
- Mice: under sinks, behind the stove and fridge, along garage walls, in the pantry
- Roof rats: in the attic along the top plates and beams with droppings, and on top of garage cabinets
- Norway rats: along the garage wall and outside along fences and near burrows, inside a covered box
- Anywhere kids or pets can reach: use an enclosed trap or a trap box
How many, and for how long
More than you'd think. Texas A&M AgriLife training material recommends several traps per mouse, a few feet apart, and says that for all rodents, more traps are better and they should be checked often. For rats, it recommends pre-baiting: leave traps baited but unset for one to two weeks so the rats stop avoiding them, then set them.
Check traps every day. A trap with a dead rodent stops working and starts smelling.
Bait
Use a small amount, pressed into the trigger so it can't be lifted off. Peanut butter, nuts, dried fruit and pet food all work. For mice, a little cotton or nesting material on the trigger works in cold weather. Use what they're already eating if you can tell.
Safety with kids and pets
Snap traps can hurt fingers and paws. Put them where kids and pets can't reach: behind appliances, inside cabinets, in the attic and in closed-off parts of the garage. Use enclosed traps or trap boxes anywhere else. Outside, cover rat traps with a box that has small openings on the sides so birds and pets can't get at them. Keep any bait in a locked station, out of reach.
Common trap mistakes
Most failed trapping comes down to a few mistakes:
- Too few traps, spread too thin
- Traps set in the middle of the floor instead of against walls
- Too much bait, so rodents lick it off without triggering the trap
- Rat traps set right away instead of pre-baited for wary rats
- Traps not checked daily
- Trapping without sealing, so new rodents keep arriving
Garage and attic placement in a Plano house
In a typical Plano house, the best spots are predictable. In the garage: along the wall shared with the house, behind the freezer, beside the water heater and in the corners near the overhead door. In the attic: along the top plates near the hatch, on the beams above the garage and beside any droppings you find. In the kitchen: under the sink and behind the stove or fridge.
What about bait stations?
Bait stations hold poison, not traps. Under the EPA's 2008 rodenticide decision, as summarized by the Texas Department of Agriculture, consumer rodent baits must be sold in or with a bait station, and the strongest anticoagulants aren't sold to consumers at all. Poisoned rodents can die in walls and attics, and pets can be poisoned too. Keep bait outside, in a locked station, or leave it to a licensed provider.
When traps aren't enough
If you're still catching rodents after two weeks, they're still getting in. Traps handle the ones inside; sealing stops the next ones. That's when to call for entry point sealing. For mice in the kitchen, see mouse control; for attic noise, roof rat control.
Something in the attic or the garage?
Ready to have the gaps found and closed? Call and describe what you're hearing or finding. (972) 325-9652
Common questions
What's the best bait for mouse traps?
A small dab of peanut butter works well. In winter, a bit of cotton or nesting material can work too.
Should I wear gloves when setting traps?
Yes, for handling droppings and dead rodents. Gloves also keep your scent off the trap.
How do I dispose of a dead mouse?
Wear gloves, spray it with disinfectant, bag it, seal the bag and put it in the trash cart. Wash your hands.
Are ultrasonic devices better than traps?
No. See do rodent repellents work.
How long should I keep trapping?
Until a week or two goes by with no catches and no fresh droppings. Then leave a couple of traps in the garage as an early warning.